The 19th of February saw the return of the annual Melbourne Alternative Designers Fashion Showcase (M.A.D). After years of lockdowns with the pandemic, this event has been a shining goal on my calendar. And it looked like it was a goal for many people, as it seemed to have the most attendees in all the years it has run. That isn’t to say we were packed in, M.A.D continued to keep public safety in mind and we still had plenty of space to move around, and masks were to be worn (unless drinking). M.A.D returned to its spiritual home of the Meat Markets, which I think is the best location it has had over the years. It’s a beautiful location (every time I visit I love the little cow heads on the columns), with lots of space, but it doesn’t get too hot or cold. It’s very easy for them to split the market and catwalk, allowing last minute adjustments to the stage without patrons seeing behind the magic, but also making sure the vendors get the maximum amount of time and attention before, between, and after the show.
HMUA: 'Makeup by Kittx' Kitt Karnage and Emma Massarotti
Designer: Anntoinette Holt
Following next was Miss Marie, presenting a cyberpunk, inter galactic
feast for the eyes. This isn’t a collection for everyday wear, (but it’s
futuristic so who knows what may be fashionable in the future), it’s
more akin to couture and wearable art. They would look fantastic in
photos and film, or even at a more adult event. The outfits used a
clear-coloured vinyl/plastic material as pops of colour against heavy
black fabrics; creating a sharp contrast. There was even contrast
between using a heavy fabric for more revealing outfits. The silhouettes
and shapes on these garments were unique; it can be a tricky balance
between what to cover and what to expose, and Miss Marie managed it very
well, exposing different body parts to entice. And each outfit had its
own unique shape and cut to it, nothing was repeated.
My
favourite outfit was a dress made from a transparent purple/pink vinyl.
I love the slimline shape of it, the choker/collar connecting to the
dress, and the erotica of seeing but not seeing the body underneath.
I
also have a special mention for a fur jacket with ‘feathers’ of
iridescent plastic in the sleeves. How they caught the light and added
texture was beautiful!
Designer: LouLou-Marie
Up next was Alexandra Zvi, showcasing a unicorn fantasy feast for the eyes. There was only one outfit in this collection, but one was more than enough with this high energy and wonderful presentation. The mantle and cuffs of the dress look like a unicorn’s mane and ‘feathers’, being made from rainbow fur (especially with the model’s wig being rainbow as well). The gown features draping in the skirt, reminiscent of a Victorian gown. And being made from velvet, gives the allusion of it being the unicorn’s body. I loved the peaks of coppery-red as lining in the skirt, which tied nicely together with the corset. Of which was adorned with gems and rainbows and sickly sweetness. This dress would be perfect for any otherworldly event, or a unicorn party. I love the form and movement this dress had, and each time I look back at photos I find something new about it to enjoy!
Model/MUA: Adeline-Faye Pet
Designer: Tim Ng
Closing the first half of the show was The Obtainery. Creator of ‘Trash Fashion’, this designer showcased outfits using upcycled materials; such as feathers, metal, and even paper bark. It was fascinating to see how these materials were incorporated, and every time I look back at the photos I find new details and new materials that were used. They were very reminiscent of the art festivals such as Burning Man or Beyond the Wasteland; were it’s all about no wastage and creating outlandish and textured works of art, and these outfits would be perfect for that kind of event. Whilst using upcycled materials means each outfit was vastly different from the next; there was an overall theme of powerful women with this collection. Each outfit created a character from their own world, with their own story.
Whilst
the show stopper of the collection was definitely the warrior outfit
featuring massive, animatronic wings. My favourite look was a blue lurex
gown, featuring a beautifully feathered cape attached to the model’s
arms, that were reminiscent of wings.
HMUA: Simone Clarke
Wing Makers: Janelle Dollery, Chris Tremlett, Simon Tremlett, Chris Garth, Grant Shannon
Sarah King
Angelica DeLuna
Catherine Edwards
Designer: Janelle Dollery
Also performing during intermission was Roslyn Quin, with her beautiful
companion Wordsworth. Wordsworth is a handsome hand-made puppet of an
unknown dragon-like creature. Whilst Roz was doing her best to entertain
the attendees, Wordsworth was very cheeky; trying to eat sleeves, and
thinking the party was all for him. I have known of Roz’s work for
awhile, but getting to see it in person was a real and memorable treat. I
know Wordsworth was a puppet, but she created a soul for him, with
slight movements and reactions; he was the combination of physical and
performance art.
We return back to the showcase, and opening the second half was designer
Von Chibi. And what an amazing opening! This was pure performance art.
With only one look in this collection, all eyes were on it. With
cracking and smeared body paint, model Eloquent Mx Loki was styled as a
demon summoned in a ritual. And being the only model Mx Loki made the
most of their time on the runway. Jerking their body to loud,
ritualistic music. They made their way to the end, and in a lull,
screamed. The crowd gasped, the music ramped up, strings adding an
uneasiness, as Mx Loki continued to contort, jerk, and be pulled into
our world. Until, finally, the music stopped, their body relaxed, and
the demon walked off the runway. As for the
garment itself; it was stunning. A sheer black gown; with fitted bustier
and skirt with tiers of meters of gathered fabric. Around the waist;
fringe and chains, and a headdress with fierce antlers and chains. I
love the use of a sheer fabric, allowing glimpses of the body beneath,
but hiding as more layers are involved. It also had such beautiful
movement, with the skirt flowing in contrast to Loki’s jerky movements.
This outfit is pure couture; I could easily see it in vogue or on red
carpets (though perhaps not styled as a demon; their loss though).
Model/MUA: Eloquent Mx Loki
Following was Wolf’s Leather, showcasing leather work and accessories.
This collection featured items of utility, such as bags and braces, and
items of fashion such as harnesses and a caged skirt. When you think of
leather, you usually think blacks or brows; and whilst they had these
traditional colours, I loved the use of bright blue and red leather. It
really made the accessories stand out against the black undergarments,
and turned them into a bigger statement piece. I love adding harnesses
and leather accessories to an outfit, it’s an easy way to elevate a
look, or make it more alternative; and the pieces on the runway would
definitely suit any ensemble. Or look fantastic in a more traditional
adult setting. The more practical items, a coffin shaped backpack, and a
small bag that sits on your waist, would be great for everyday use. My
favourite piece was the caged skirt made in red leather. It hugs tight
on the waist, and flares out at the hips; keeping its shape as the model
moved. It looked beautiful over a little black dress, but could easily
be styled with anything (or even nothing) and look beautiful. Whilst the
other items were lovely and would look great every day, this piece was
stand-out and definitely more appropriate for dazzling at an event.
Wrath of Kath Couture was up next, with a new collection featuring latex
garments. I love latex, so it’s always exciting to see an Australian
designer working with the material; and Kath makes such stunning
corsets, so it was a highlight to see her approach to this medium. And
Kath went all out, making striking corsets, skirts, and gowns for this
collection. Whilst each piece was unique, there was a classic-themed
styling that tied everything together, and showed the versatility that
latex can have; it doesn’t have to be full bondage catsuits, combining
pieces with different fabrics and garments can add an extra level to any
outfit. These rubber garments would fit into any adult or fetish event,
but with the rise of latex in mainstream fashion, they could easily be
added to another outfit and fit any event where you want to feel dressed
up.My favourite outfit was the gown, featuring a
leopard print bustier, plain black tight over the hips, then a flare of
sparkling red from the knees down. Latex is traditionally used in
skin-tight garments, so to see some more flow and movement in the design
is refreshing. I also like the little straps across the chest.
HMUA: Teresa Salafanca, Taya, Emily Johansson, Cassandra
Designer: Kathy Mary
Chris Hudson
MUAs: Miss Twisted, Vivien Katherine
At the end of the show we were given the sad news that this would be the last M.A.D. It was a bittersweet moment; such joy to have had a wonderful night, but such sadness to hear this was the last one. M.A.D has been a staple in the alternative community for the past seven years. It was born from designers being tired of, quite frankly, subpar shows. It set a standard on what, not only alternative fashion shows, but fashion shows in general should be, and continued to listen to feedback and improve year after year. And this year’s show displayed those lessons and improvements, it was their best show yet. I think also being such an event after two years of the pandemic, created an excited atmosphere for the attendees; we were excited to see fashion, excited to see what these artists had been creating. I am saddened to see it ending (though it was left open ended that it may one day return), but I had such a wonderful time, and it made me so happy to be surrounded by art again.
I want to thank everyone who has put so many hours, days, weeks into making M.A.D every year, and bringing a space for outsider art.
I will miss you M.A.D
Written By: Dezmin Humphryis
Photography: Slippery Photography
If any credits are missing or incorrect, please contact me so I can correct.
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